Naples
Latest page update: 3 February 2025
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By: Dion Protani
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The noisiest, most chaotic but in every sense of the word, the warmest city in Italy, Naples is the cultural heart of the south.
Geographically-speaking, it's just over a two hour drive south of Rome on Italy's Tyrrhenian Coast, looking out onto the Gulf of Naples. A sprawling city at the foot of Mount Vesuvius, it's home to just under a million people, making it the third most populous in the country behind Rome and Milan. |
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Naples: scratching beneath the surface to reveal the historic beauty
Other Italian cities may conjure up certain iconic images such as Rome's Colosseum or Pisa's Leaning Tower for example; Naples doesn't have that obvious "go to" sight that everyone knows, but give it a chance, scratch the surface just a little bit, and you'll open a treasure chest gleaming with jewels.
The city was founded by the Greeks around 500 BC and was originally called Parthenope before being changed to Neapolis, "new city", which eventually morphed in to Napoli, and the anglicised form of the name: Naples.
For those that know where to look, Naples offers a unique experience with a mixture of history, superstition, architectural brilliance and natural beauty. Since 1995, the Historic Centre of Naples has been recognised by UNESCO as a world heritage site, and as recently as 2017 it received its second inscription by the same organisation for its tradition of making pizzas. Once you've eaten a pizza in Naples, you won't ever want one from somewhere else!
The city was founded by the Greeks around 500 BC and was originally called Parthenope before being changed to Neapolis, "new city", which eventually morphed in to Napoli, and the anglicised form of the name: Naples.
For those that know where to look, Naples offers a unique experience with a mixture of history, superstition, architectural brilliance and natural beauty. Since 1995, the Historic Centre of Naples has been recognised by UNESCO as a world heritage site, and as recently as 2017 it received its second inscription by the same organisation for its tradition of making pizzas. Once you've eaten a pizza in Naples, you won't ever want one from somewhere else!
Naples is a deeply religious city where the patron saint Gennaro is worshipped with great devotion. Some of Italy's finest churches can be found here, often hidden behind a slightly faded facade but leaving you open-mouthed in surprise when you enter. There's also a religious fervour around the city's football team, SS Napoli, whose greatest ever player Maradona is worshipped at a city centre shrine.
As the city is so large, it's sometimes difficult to say where exactly the centre is, but as good a starting point for any itinerary is the main square: Piazza del Plebiscito. At one end of the square is the distinctive and unusual Basilica di San Francesco di Paola, while facing it on the opposite side is the huge complex of the Royal Palace of Naples. This is one of the finest buildings in the city and a must-see with even just its beautiful staircase worth the entry fee alone. Attached to the Royal Palace, the Teatro San Carlo is the world's oldest theatre with an unbroken history, one which you can discover more about with a guided tour.
The grandeur of the buildings in this part of the city centre continues as you step out of the theatre and you're faced with the Galleria Umberto I. Any visitors to Milan might need to pinch themselves that they're not in the same place as it greatly resembles the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II with its beautiful glass roof and polished floors leading to historic shops. A little tip here, at the Galleria's exit to Via Toledo, you'll find an unassuming little stall where you can buy the famous sfogliatella pastry; you can buy them all over the city but Neapolitans are fussy about having the best and are always willing to make the extra effort to get that extra quality.
As the city is so large, it's sometimes difficult to say where exactly the centre is, but as good a starting point for any itinerary is the main square: Piazza del Plebiscito. At one end of the square is the distinctive and unusual Basilica di San Francesco di Paola, while facing it on the opposite side is the huge complex of the Royal Palace of Naples. This is one of the finest buildings in the city and a must-see with even just its beautiful staircase worth the entry fee alone. Attached to the Royal Palace, the Teatro San Carlo is the world's oldest theatre with an unbroken history, one which you can discover more about with a guided tour.
The grandeur of the buildings in this part of the city centre continues as you step out of the theatre and you're faced with the Galleria Umberto I. Any visitors to Milan might need to pinch themselves that they're not in the same place as it greatly resembles the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II with its beautiful glass roof and polished floors leading to historic shops. A little tip here, at the Galleria's exit to Via Toledo, you'll find an unassuming little stall where you can buy the famous sfogliatella pastry; you can buy them all over the city but Neapolitans are fussy about having the best and are always willing to make the extra effort to get that extra quality.
Coffee is something else that takes on almost religious proportions in Naples and you can find one of the city's best cafes just a few steps away from the Galleria. At the corner of Via Toledo and Piazza del Plebiscito stands the Gran Caffè Gambrinus, an historic establishment with immaculately-dressed baristas and of course, wonderful, strong coffee. Most Neapolitans and indeed, most Italians in general just drink a small espresso, standing at the bar for no more than a few minutes before continuing with their day. You can of course get a cappuccino and other types of coffee but one you won't see on the menu in many places in the world is a caffè sospeso. It translates as "suspended coffee" but is in effect, a coffee you buy as an act of charity for a complete stranger that's yet to enter the bar.
Step outside Gambrinus and you'll find a whole host of sights to enjoy in every direction. One that's not always given top-billing by the guide books but in my opinion should be, is the Galleria Borbonica. Its entrance is just a short walk from Piazza del Plebiscito and offers an extraordinary view of the city. The Galleria Borbonica is an underground network of tunnels built by the Bourbon royal family that came to be used for a number of reasons. Among them, its history as a bomb shelter during World War Two means you can quite literally step back in time and see the vehicles of the era such as vintage taxis and vespas, rusting away in the caves. The tunnel complex also conceals the harrowing tales of the people who strived to survive under the most difficult of circumstances.
The Galleria Borbonica is just one example of the fascinating Underground Naples attractions. One of the city's most popular sights is Napoli Sotterranea, a complex network of cisterns and aqueducts, so crucial to the development of the city that now offers a fascinating insight into its past. Also underground but offering a different perspective on life are the various catacombs, ancient burial sites from which we have been able to learn so much about life in the city throughout history. There are few cities, if any, that can also offer the spectacle of the Cimitero delle Fontanelle, a slightly macabre series of tunnels where thousands of impoverished plague victims were buried and whose bones are now on display. The bones and skulls attract offerings from the living in the hope of good luck, underpinning that superstitious nature of the city's residents.
Step outside Gambrinus and you'll find a whole host of sights to enjoy in every direction. One that's not always given top-billing by the guide books but in my opinion should be, is the Galleria Borbonica. Its entrance is just a short walk from Piazza del Plebiscito and offers an extraordinary view of the city. The Galleria Borbonica is an underground network of tunnels built by the Bourbon royal family that came to be used for a number of reasons. Among them, its history as a bomb shelter during World War Two means you can quite literally step back in time and see the vehicles of the era such as vintage taxis and vespas, rusting away in the caves. The tunnel complex also conceals the harrowing tales of the people who strived to survive under the most difficult of circumstances.
The Galleria Borbonica is just one example of the fascinating Underground Naples attractions. One of the city's most popular sights is Napoli Sotterranea, a complex network of cisterns and aqueducts, so crucial to the development of the city that now offers a fascinating insight into its past. Also underground but offering a different perspective on life are the various catacombs, ancient burial sites from which we have been able to learn so much about life in the city throughout history. There are few cities, if any, that can also offer the spectacle of the Cimitero delle Fontanelle, a slightly macabre series of tunnels where thousands of impoverished plague victims were buried and whose bones are now on display. The bones and skulls attract offerings from the living in the hope of good luck, underpinning that superstitious nature of the city's residents.
One of the main thoroughfares in Naples is Via Toledo, which confusingly, is also sometimes referred to as Via Roma. This is the main shopping street in the city and leads up to the centro storico, the historic centre. For many people, this is the real heart and soul of Naples; a series of narrow streets packed with shops, restaurants, apartments and life in general. This is one of the most vibrant areas in Italy where market traders call out their wares while locals argue the topics of the day in tiny bars. Affectionately known as Spaccanpoli, "Split Naples", the officially named Via Benedetto Croce is one of three streets built on the Roman principle of Decumanus. From above, Spaccanapoli does indeed give the effect of splitting Naples, while the central street just above it is called Via dei Tribunali - once the Decumanus Maggiore.
The streets of the centro storico are home to numerous of the city's most important sights and you can easily spend a day just in this area alone, uncovering all of their little secrets. Not so secret is the famous work known as the Cristo Velato, the "Veiled Christ", an exquisite sculpture that seems to have an almost life-like quality. The Cristo Velato is on display at the Sansevero Chapel Museum and there are further religious museums to enjoy within a short walking distance. Among the best of those are the Chiesa di Santa Maria Donnaregina Vecchia and the beautiful Santa Chiara complex.
Perhaps one of the most representative sights of Naples is Via San Gregorio Armeno. The narrow street is always packed with a sea of people trying to get a glimpse of the presepe, nativity scenes that also have a modern-day flavour with amusing models of current celebrities on display. What's most remarkable about this street however, is the unassuming entrance to the Chiesa di San Gregorio Armeno; the small church is one of the most beautiful in the city, but somehow opens up onto an expansive site with a beautiful garden at the centre of a monastery. The peace and quiet here is in stark contrast to the hustle and bustle just outside its main doors.
The streets of the centro storico are home to numerous of the city's most important sights and you can easily spend a day just in this area alone, uncovering all of their little secrets. Not so secret is the famous work known as the Cristo Velato, the "Veiled Christ", an exquisite sculpture that seems to have an almost life-like quality. The Cristo Velato is on display at the Sansevero Chapel Museum and there are further religious museums to enjoy within a short walking distance. Among the best of those are the Chiesa di Santa Maria Donnaregina Vecchia and the beautiful Santa Chiara complex.
Perhaps one of the most representative sights of Naples is Via San Gregorio Armeno. The narrow street is always packed with a sea of people trying to get a glimpse of the presepe, nativity scenes that also have a modern-day flavour with amusing models of current celebrities on display. What's most remarkable about this street however, is the unassuming entrance to the Chiesa di San Gregorio Armeno; the small church is one of the most beautiful in the city, but somehow opens up onto an expansive site with a beautiful garden at the centre of a monastery. The peace and quiet here is in stark contrast to the hustle and bustle just outside its main doors.
The most important religious building in the city is Naples Cathedral which is home to the Cappella di San Gennaro; the chapel dedicated to the city's patron saint. Once a year, a hugely important ceremony takes place in the city where the blood of San Gennaro is brought out to see if it will liquefy. If the blood does liquefy, it means good luck for the city and the ritual is therefore attended by thousands of people, eager to know how things will turn out for the year ahead.
Naples National Archaeological Museum, just a short distance from the centro storico, is considered one of the finest museums of its kind in the country. A little further out from the city centre lies one of the best museum galleries in Italy: the Royal Palace of Capodimonte where the classics are mixed in with contemporary artists. Naples can also boast three castles: close to Piazza del Plebiscito is Castel Nuovo while a walk along the seaside promenade eventually brings you to Castel dell'Ovo, the "castle of the egg" within which lies an important egg. As long as the egg survives, so will Naples!
The third castle lies in an area called Vomero. This is an area of well-heeled residents and upscale shops that sits on a hill overlooking the city centre. From Vomero's Castel Sant'Elmo you can get some of the best views of the city below. You can also visit the Certosa di San Martino next door or simply loiter at the Belvedere San Martino, a viewing area with further panoramas of Naples and Mount Vesuivus looming menacingly in the background.
Not only is Naples the cultural capital of the south of Italy, it's also one of the country's most important travel hubs. Firstly, Naples International Airport helps transport travellers directly to the city from Europe and beyond. From there you can take a bus to Napoli Stazione Centrale, the central train station with rail links to Rome and all of Italy's most important cities. Naples also has an important port from which you can take ferries and hydrofoils to the nearby islands of Ischia, Procida and Capri. You can also sail down the coast to the Sorrento Peninsula and beyond to the Amalfi Coast. There are numerous other ferry routes available from Naples including destinations in Sicily and Sardinia.
One of the most remarkable aspects of Naples is its underground Metro system. The modern rail network offers a quick and efficient means of travelling around the city, but it's set apart from equivalent systems in other cities by its beauty. A number of "art stations" make up the network with some weird and wacky designs on display at stations such as Toledo and Università, showing Naples as the modern metropolis it is and perhaps helping to dispel certain stereotypes that have become stuck to it over the years.
Naples National Archaeological Museum, just a short distance from the centro storico, is considered one of the finest museums of its kind in the country. A little further out from the city centre lies one of the best museum galleries in Italy: the Royal Palace of Capodimonte where the classics are mixed in with contemporary artists. Naples can also boast three castles: close to Piazza del Plebiscito is Castel Nuovo while a walk along the seaside promenade eventually brings you to Castel dell'Ovo, the "castle of the egg" within which lies an important egg. As long as the egg survives, so will Naples!
The third castle lies in an area called Vomero. This is an area of well-heeled residents and upscale shops that sits on a hill overlooking the city centre. From Vomero's Castel Sant'Elmo you can get some of the best views of the city below. You can also visit the Certosa di San Martino next door or simply loiter at the Belvedere San Martino, a viewing area with further panoramas of Naples and Mount Vesuivus looming menacingly in the background.
Not only is Naples the cultural capital of the south of Italy, it's also one of the country's most important travel hubs. Firstly, Naples International Airport helps transport travellers directly to the city from Europe and beyond. From there you can take a bus to Napoli Stazione Centrale, the central train station with rail links to Rome and all of Italy's most important cities. Naples also has an important port from which you can take ferries and hydrofoils to the nearby islands of Ischia, Procida and Capri. You can also sail down the coast to the Sorrento Peninsula and beyond to the Amalfi Coast. There are numerous other ferry routes available from Naples including destinations in Sicily and Sardinia.
One of the most remarkable aspects of Naples is its underground Metro system. The modern rail network offers a quick and efficient means of travelling around the city, but it's set apart from equivalent systems in other cities by its beauty. A number of "art stations" make up the network with some weird and wacky designs on display at stations such as Toledo and Università, showing Naples as the modern metropolis it is and perhaps helping to dispel certain stereotypes that have become stuck to it over the years.
Comune di Napoli
Region: Campania
Province: Metropolitan city of Naples Population: 911,697 (2024 - source) Size: 117 km² Highlights: Galleria Borbonica, Teatro San Carlo, Galleria Umberto Public transport: trams, buses, metro, funicular railways Nearest airport: Naples International Airport (7 km from centre) |
What are the best hotels in Naples?
- Grand Hotel Vesuvio: Established in 1882, this historic seafront hotel offers luxurious accommodations with panoramic views of the Gulf of Naples and Mount Vesuvius. Amenities include a rooftop restaurant, a spa, and an indoor pool.
- Romeo Hotel: A modern design hotel located near the port, featuring contemporary rooms, a rooftop pool, a Michelin-starred restaurant, and a spa. Its central location provides easy access to historic sites and ferry terminals.
- Grand Hotel Parker's: This elegant 19th-century hotel offers classic luxury with antique furnishings, a rooftop terrace with stunning views, and fine dining. It's situated in the upscale Chiaia district, close to shopping and cultural attractions.
- Hotel Palazzo Decumani: Set in a restored early 20th-century building, this boutique hotel combines modern comforts with historic charm. Located in the heart of the historic center, it's within walking distance of major attractions.
- Hotel Piazza Bellini & Apartments: Housed in a 16th-century palace, this hotel offers stylish rooms and apartments with artistic decor. Guests appreciate its central location in the historic district and its charming courtyard.
- Eurostars Hotel Excelsior: Overlooking the Bay of Naples, this grand hotel features elegant rooms, a rooftop terrace, and proximity to the Castel dell'Ovo. Its classic style and prime location make it a favorite among travelers.
- Hotel Santa Lucia: Located on the waterfront, this hotel offers refined accommodations with sea views, combining traditional elegance with modern amenities. It's a short walk from the Royal Palace and Piazza del Plebiscito.
- The Britannique Naples, Curio Collection by Hilton: This recently renovated hotel blends contemporary design with historic architecture. Situated in the Vomero district, it offers panoramic views of the city and bay.
- Palazzo Alabardieri: Nestled in the fashionable Chiaia neighborhood, this boutique hotel provides elegantly furnished rooms and a cozy bar. It's close to high-end shopping streets and the seafront promenade.
- Hotel Il Convento: Set in a historic building in the Spanish Quarter, this charming hotel offers individually decorated rooms with rustic touches. Guests appreciate its authentic atmosphere and proximity to local eateries.
What's the best way to reach Naples?
Naples is well-connected by air, road, rail, and sea. The main gateway is Naples International Airport, located about 7 kilometres from the city centre. From the airport, travelers can take taxis, rental cars, or the Alibus shuttle, which provides direct connections to Naples Central Station and the main ferry terminals.
By road, Naples is accessible via the A1 motorway, which connects it to Rome, and the A3, leading to the Amalfi Coast and southern Italy. Traffic can be heavy, particularly in the historic center, and parking is limited.
Rail connections are extensive, with Naples Central Station serving high-speed trains from Rome, Florence, and Milan via Trenitalia and Italo. The Circumvesuviana train network links Naples with Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Sorrento.
Ferries and hydrofoils operate from the port of Naples to the islands of Capri, Ischia, and Procida, as well as other coastal destinations. Long-distance ferries connect Naples with Sicily and Sardinia.
Local transport includes metro lines, buses, and funiculars, making it easy to navigate the city. The metro system connects key areas, while local buses and trams provide access to neighbourhoods and nearby towns.
By road, Naples is accessible via the A1 motorway, which connects it to Rome, and the A3, leading to the Amalfi Coast and southern Italy. Traffic can be heavy, particularly in the historic center, and parking is limited.
Rail connections are extensive, with Naples Central Station serving high-speed trains from Rome, Florence, and Milan via Trenitalia and Italo. The Circumvesuviana train network links Naples with Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Sorrento.
Ferries and hydrofoils operate from the port of Naples to the islands of Capri, Ischia, and Procida, as well as other coastal destinations. Long-distance ferries connect Naples with Sicily and Sardinia.
Local transport includes metro lines, buses, and funiculars, making it easy to navigate the city. The metro system connects key areas, while local buses and trams provide access to neighbourhoods and nearby towns.
Where are the best places to eat in Naples?
- Il Ristorante Alain Ducasse Napoli: Located in the historic Palazzo Petrucci, this Michelin-starred restaurant offers a refined dining experience, blending French culinary techniques with Neapolitan ingredients.
- 50 Kalò: Renowned for its exceptional Neapolitan pizza, 50 Kalò is a favorite among locals and visitors alike, offering a variety of traditional and innovative toppings.
- Di Martino Sea Front Pasta Bar: Situated along the waterfront, this establishment specializes in Italian cuisine, particularly pasta dishes, providing guests with a delightful dining experience.
- Caruso Roof Garden: Offering panoramic views of the city, this elegant restaurant serves Campanian cuisine, making it an ideal spot for a memorable meal.
- L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele: Famed for its traditional Neapolitan pizza, this historic pizzeria has been serving locals and tourists since 1870, offering a quintessential Naples dining experience.
- Pizzeria Starita: Established in 1901, Starita is celebrated for its classic Neapolitan pizzas and warm atmosphere, making it a must-visit for pizza enthusiasts.
- Trattoria Da Nennella: Located in the Spanish Quarter, this lively trattoria offers traditional Neapolitan dishes in a bustling, authentic setting.
- Palazzo Petrucci: As the first Michelin-starred restaurant in Naples, Palazzo Petrucci offers a modern twist on traditional Neapolitan cuisine in an elegant setting.
- La Notizia: Helmed by renowned pizzaiolo Enzo Coccia, La Notizia is acclaimed for its artisanal approach to pizza-making, offering a variety of innovative and classic toppings.
- Caffè Gambrinus: Established in 1860, this historic café is known for its elegant interiors and rich history, offering a range of pastries, coffees, and light meals.